The Swell Today

Posted by Jul19, 2008 Comments (0)

Well the swell came in today(about head to head and a half on the sets) but it was a bit sloppy, kind of a mixed swell and it rained off and on. I got lucky and hit it late at low tide after a heavy rain shower. It was good for about 40min then the wind started. Got a nice stand up barrel on my first wave. I was the only one out.

 

 

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Categories : Surf Journal

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