The Beauty of The Ocean

Posted by Aug10, 2011 Comments (1)

Yesterday was what I like to think of as the perfect Shaka/Costa Rican day.  I was up by 5:00, finished my first cup of coffee by 5:30, and on my way to the beach for dawn patrol (early morning surf session before the sun rises) by 5:45.  The water was glassy and cool, the air was clear, and the sun had just begun to rise as I paddled out to the lineup.  I was the only one in the water for a good 30 minutes, making it feel like I had the entire ocean to myself.  I am always amazed by the constant intersection of natural power and beauty that occurs in the ocean.  There is something very southing about the end result of this collision that can’t be found anywhere but the ocean.

After breakfast I helped Mo’e give a surf lesson to a family of 4 from Long Island, NY, with a set of 8-year-old twins. Talk about high energy!  But I am fascinated by every aspect of surfing, and I know the teaching process will help my own surfing as well, so I stoked stoked to help out!

Later in the afternoon, Mo’e and I paddled out for a quick session before the sun went down.  I made the transition to what my friend and past Shaka volunteer, Katie Berky, would call a more “sporty” board, moving from a hefty 7’6″ Malibu down to a 6’3″ shortboard.  It’s a whole different ballgame riding a shortboard, almost like learning to surf all over again, but I’m already stoked by the different style of riding that comes with the smaller board.  Lots of hard work is ahead of me for sure, but it’s safe to say I’ll never go back!

Off for a quick surf, and then some ding repair this afternoon

Pura Vida!

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Comments

  1. Thorbjorn1 says:

    Quick sand… is what this life feels life.

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