Nice day small waves (200+lbs surfer reserving speed)

Posted by Jul15, 2008 Comments (0)

Tody the waves were small(waist to chest high) but the conditions were clean and glassy for the first couple of hours, but I caught a few good ones. I can’t complain when there was only about 4 people in the line up, 2 of which were beginners. I was working on generating speed. Weighing in at about 205lbs and surfing a 6,4, speed generation is tough. I really have to keep a high line but try to stay close to the pocket at the same time soo I have that steep part close when I decide to throw my lug into a snap or whatever.  If I pump down the line to fast I end up too far out on the shoulder, loose my speed, then I have to do a lame cutback and wait for the wave to catch me up, all in all good practice. 

Found out today that one of the local surfer kids Luis(here in play hermosa there is only 3) took second in the groms category(14 and under) this past Saturday at the Santa Teresa surf comp. Gregg and i had been working on his surfing for the last few months and he is starting to land ariels and round house cutbacks. The best part is he beat out another kid from a neihgboring town who he has never beaten before. The kid he beat is aspiring to be a pro, goes to all the Costa Rica comps, and has a lot of support from his dad. Luis on the other hand had to hitch a ride, pay for his own entry, and surf on an old beat up board. His parents are old school Costa Ricans who think surfing is a waste of time. If thats the case then I waste more time than anyone.  


Categories : Surfing Techniques

Leave a Reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.