Catching the wave with a little advantage

Posted by Jul16, 2008 Comments (0)

Today the waves were similar to yesterday waist high to chest high, a little less clean very shifty and the wind kicked in after about an hour. Today all you could really work on was trying to be in the right spot. I focused on trying to take a more aggressive approach to catching the wave. I don’t mean aggressive in the lineup, but rather when I know im gonna catch a wave put a little more oomph in to the last 4-5 strokes before take off, then try to pop up quick and get planted on my board a split second early. This is really important to get a good start on the wave for speed and set up. In big waves you setup for the bottom turn, but in small waves it’s like you setup for the first pump down the line. I grew up in Hawaii surfing more reefy waves with a little more power, so I have a bit of a bad habit of drawing out my bottom turn too far out in front of the wave which can hinder your speed in smaller waves. In smaller wave you have to cheat your turn on take off and do a bottom turn-pump.

My son goes to the local private school and we had a parent-child meeting today. It’s a really cool bilingual school about 600ft from the beach and 1 block from our house with about 70 students. The kids all run around barefoot and do really cool weekly activities like, gardening, soccer, and beach day. My son is now fluent in Spanish and like a local here.

Today at the meeting the director said she wanted to put together some annual surf contests at our local beach to help raise money for the school, and asked if we would like to help since we are the only surf camp in town and we are practically next door. Not sure I like the idea of bringing surf comp crouds here. So I’ll keep this blog posted on any developments. Peace out!


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