Archive for Surf Journal

Jul
18

Surf break

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Geared up, went to the beach, and the waves just weren’t doing it. A couple of my friends in the line up yesterday told me a big swell (around 10-12ft) is supposed to be heading our way today and last through the weekend. Nobody was out today and the ocean looked a bit stormy and unorganized, so I decided to take a break and surf the internet.

I usually surf about 3 hours in the morning and if the conditions are right another 2 1/2 hours just before sunset. Yesterday the waves were fun and the conditions stayed good through the day, so between the morning and sunset I put in about 6 hours. Felt a little tired today so the lousy conditions are a good excuse to take a break, and if the waves are pushing 10 ft tommorow I’ll be nice and fresh.

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Jul
16

Catching the wave with a little advantage

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Today the waves were similar to yesterday waist high to chest high, a little less clean very shifty and the wind kicked in after about an hour. Today all you could really work on was trying to be in the right spot. I focused on trying to take a more aggressive approach to catching Read More→

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