Archive for Surf Journal
Well we had a very educational week. We learned a lot and now we will definately have to hit the drawing board, but that is exactly what we hoped for. Our guest of honor Vijay will be exiting tomorrow so we had a party tonight. In fact i am still buzzing from the rounds of Pilsen and Imperial from earlier. We will post some video and audio content as soon as we get a little editing help done.
But i will end with this. Since i have been hanging out with adaptive surfers and the like, It has realy helped progress my thinking as well as my apreciation for many other things. I will always hold these experiences deer to my heart
The waves were super clean but small so I decided it was a good opportunity for a one day break. Yesterday there was a 1 day swell (chest to slightly over head) so I put in another 4 hour session. Normally 3-4 hour isn’t too much but I caught so many waves yesterday that I probably paddled 6miles. This morning the waves were super clean but tiny, I figured a good opportunity for a rest day.
My right shoulder started Read More→
Today the waves were small but fun, extremely glassy with fewer than 10 people out. I’ve been trying to get as much surf in before the brut of the rainy season sets in. you can still surf a lot in the rainy season but the conditions are rougher and the rain is unpredictable.
From my house or the surf camp it’s about a 3 minute walk through lush jungle like vegetation with lots of cool animals. It’s not uncommon to see cows, horses, iguanas, squirrels, crabs, and monkeys. Today on my way to the beach a pack of white faced monkeys were all around me. They were yelling at me Read More→
Today the waves were small, clean and fun. There were about 9 people out. But spread out. It was one of those days that it was so nice Read More→
Went out today around 9:45 because it rained in the morning. Once again I was the only one out. Most of the tourists come in the dry season so surfing alone is kind of Read More→
So I paddle out today at one of our local points. The swell is holding so waves are pretty fun about head high and a tad more on the sets, I’m the only guy out, I’m laughing and whistling to my self, then bam 2 cars pull up on the beach and within a 4 min time period there is 10 guys on me. Its funny how there can be a whole stretch of beach but everybody paddles out to where the one guy is.
My first instinct was to get aggressive, but quickly I realized only about 2 of them were good surfers and the others were beginner to intermediate. I caught about the same amount of wave that I would have and actually enjoyed the company.
Well the swell came in today(about head to head and a half on the sets) but it was a bit sloppy, kind of a mixed swell and it rained off and on. I got lucky and hit it late at low tide after a heavy rain shower. It was good for about 40min then the wind started. Got a nice stand up barrel on my first wave. I was the only one out.
I was browsing other beach related camps, and I remembered this one. My brother and I went to this camp about 5 years ago in Cancun. We had a blast. I definately recommend this one, you get to hang out, play v-ball ,and party with the pros at really cool tropical destinations. Looks like they have really grown in the last 5 years. http://www.volleyballvacations.com