Many of our friends and family thought we were crazy to be leaving the US/Las Vegas when we had our own small successful Read More→
The waves were super clean but small so I decided it was a good opportunity for a one day break. Yesterday there was a 1 day swell (chest to slightly over head) so I put in another 4 hour session. Normally 3-4 hour isn’t too much but I caught so many waves yesterday that I probably paddled 6miles. This morning the waves were super clean but tiny, I figured a good opportunity for a rest day.
My right shoulder started Read More→
Today the waves were small but fun, extremely glassy with fewer than 10 people out. I’ve been trying to get as much surf in before the brut of the rainy season sets in. you can still surf a lot in the rainy season but the conditions are rougher and the rain is unpredictable.
From my house or the surf camp it’s about a 3 minute walk through lush jungle like vegetation with lots of cool animals. It’s not uncommon to see cows, horses, iguanas, squirrels, crabs, and monkeys. Today on my way to the beach a pack of white faced monkeys were all around me. They were yelling at me Read More→
Today the waves were small, clean and fun. There were about 9 people out. But spread out. It was one of those days that it was so nice Read More→
Definitions: What is hitting or smacking the lip?
The “lip” is the highest point of the wave just before it falls or breaks. Depending on the wind strength and direction, a lip can have many characteristics. For instance Read More→
Went out today around 9:45 because it rained in the morning. Once again I was the only one out. Most of the tourists come in the dry season so surfing alone is kind of Read More→
So I paddle out today at one of our local points. The swell is holding so waves are pretty fun about head high and a tad more on the sets, I’m the only guy out, I’m laughing and whistling to my self, then bam 2 cars pull up on the beach and within a 4 min time period there is 10 guys on me. Its funny how there can be a whole stretch of beach but everybody paddles out to where the one guy is.
My first instinct was to get aggressive, but quickly I realized only about 2 of them were good surfers and the others were beginner to intermediate. I caught about the same amount of wave that I would have and actually enjoyed the company.
This trick I really wanna get down. I can get my fins out and I’m pretty solid at snaps, but the whip the fins out into a 360 is beyond me. I’m gonna watch this clip Read More→