Yesterday was what I like to think of as the perfect Shaka/Costa Rican day. I was up by 5:00, finished my first cup of coffee by 5:30, and on my way to the beach for dawn patrol (early morning surf session before the sun rises) by 5:45. The water was glassy and cool, the air was clear, and the sun had just begun to rise as I paddled out to the lineup. I was the only one in the water for a good 30 minutes, making it feel like I had the entire ocean to myself. I am always amazed by the constant intersection of natural power and beauty that occurs in the ocean. There is something very southing about the end result of this collision that can’t be found anywhere but the ocean.
After breakfast I helped Mo’e give a surf lesson to a family of 4 from Long Island, NY, with a set of 8-year-old twins. Talk about high energy! But I am fascinated by every aspect of surfing, and I know the teaching process will help my own surfing as well, so I stoked stoked to help out!
Later in the afternoon, Mo’e and I paddled out for a quick session before the sun went down. I made the transition to what my friend and past Shaka volunteer, Katie Berky, would call a more “sporty” board, moving from a hefty 7’6″ Malibu down to a 6’3″ shortboard. It’s a whole different ballgame riding a shortboard, almost like learning to surf all over again, but I’m already stoked by the different style of riding that comes with the smaller board. Lots of hard work is ahead of me for sure, but it’s safe to say I’ll never go back!
Off for a quick surf, and then some ding repair this afternoon
Pura Vida!
Hey everyone, John-Michael here, the new Shaka volunteer from Texas.
It’s my first time in Costa Rica and I couldn’t be more blown away by the natural beauty of the area! I’ve been here at Shaka for 3 weeks now and I can’t figure out where all the time has gone. Zip-lining in Montezuma, snorkeling in the nearby tide pools, trying some of the local flavor, and surfing every day probably explains some of it. JAWS 9 and 10 went off with huge success, bringing in 5 new participants and their families, along with a few returning veterans, to shred the waves of Playa Hermosa. I have been working in the adaptive field for a few years now, but the JAWS program with Ocean Healing Group was my first experience with adaptive surfing. I have never been so moved like I was that first day of JAWS 9. There is so much therapeutic power in surfing, I wish everyone could experience it first hand. I am incredibly thankful to Frank and Mo’e for letting me be a part of such a wonderful program, and I am excited to continue my involvement with Ocean Healing Group in the future!
A quick little note about the charming power of Shaka and Costa Rica: One of the couples staying with us has fallen in love with the area and Costa Rican lifestyle that they are planning to sell their house back in the United States and move down to Playa Hermosa permanently. How cool to think a vacation getaway could turn into a new beginning! Costa Rica really is an amazing place!
Well, I’m off to the beach for a quick surf session. Only 2 weeks left here at Shaka so I have to get in as much surf as possible!
Pura Vida!
